Labels emblazoned with claims like dermatologically tested or hypoallergenic instil a certain level of confidence that a product won’t harm or irritate our skin. If you have sensitive skin, or have had a skin reaction to cosmetics in the past, you might be particularly attuned to these sorts of terms, but what do they mean and how do you know you can trust them? To help ensure a product is suitable for sensitive skin, that product should be tested in its final form.
Dermatologically tested 1
Dermatological testing assesses a product’s potential to cause irritation and sensitisation (allergic reactions) on the skin. The test involved is called repeat-insult patch testing, and it’s conducted on human volunteers. A small sample of the product is applied to a target area of the back, then covered with either a semi-occlusive or occlusive patch (like a surgical dressing). An occlusive patch is sealed on all four sides of the target area, helping to drive more of the product into the skin, and making a reaction more likely. A semi-occlusive patch is similar, except that it’s open on two sides, like a typical Band-Aid, allowing some air to flow around the site. The patches are left on for 24 hours, and after 48 hours the skin is ‘read’ by a qualified expert who looks for any signs of redness or swelling. This process is repeated 9 more times on each of at least 50 test subjects, giving a total of at least 500 patches, all of which must remain clear for the sample to pass. The product must also pass a challenge test, where the sample is applied to each volunteer again after a few weeks, this time on a different location, to ensure they haven’t been sensitised to any of the ingredients. To really put a product through the wringer, the panel of testing volunteers will include at least 25 people with sensitive skin.
Hypoallergenic
The term ‘hypoallergenic’ may not be regulated in all markets, so there’s no standard testing a product needs to pass to qualify. Essentially, it’s self-governed by the company making the claim. At the very least, a product should not contain added fragrance. It should also have passed repeat-insult patch testing using a sensitive skin panel and occlusive patches, the most challenging testing conditions. If you’re curious or concerned about the testing behind a particular product, try getting in contact with the manufacturer.
There are no guarantees
Even if a product contains no added fragrance, and it’s run the gamut of available testing, there are still no guarantees that it won’t cause a reaction on your skin. If you have sensitive skin, it’s also a good idea to patch test any new skincare products on a small area of skin before incorporating them into your routine.
How to patch test skincare products:
- Choose a test area – This should be near the area you intend to use the product. E.g. for face products, try the side of the neck or behind the ear.
- Stop using other products on that area – And only test one new product on that area at a time. It’s important to control this experiment as much as possible, so that if a reaction occurs, you can be sure which product is causing it.
- Apply the product – You only need to use a tiny amount. If it’s a rinse off product like a cleanser, make sure you follow the directions. Even on normal skin, cleansers can often cause redness/itchiness if not rinsed off properly. Patch test the product on a small area of skin about 24 hours prior to use.
- Monitor the outcome – If you develop a severe rash or experience skin irritation including symptoms such as stinging, burning, itching, it would be best to wash the affected area and consult your medical practitioner, if required. Some reactions could take up to 96 hours, and repeated exposures, to develop, so it’s important to repeat the process for a few days before diving in.2
If you develop or experience serious symptoms including severe rashes or are concerned about any other symptoms, seek prompt medical attention.
