What are super skincare ingredients?

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What are super skincare ingredients??

Ceramides  |  Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)  |  Glycerin

Learn about super skincare ingredients.

You've heard of skincare ingredients like Ceramides, Vitamin B3 (Niacinamides) and hydrating Glycerin, but what do they actually do? Let’s explore the science of common skincare ingredients and how they help your skin.

Ceramides

What are Ceramides?

Ceramides are naturally occurring lipids and make up roughly half of the stratum corneum's lipid bi-layer. They play a significant role in the skin's barrier function, helping to maintain water balance as well as protecting your epidermis from environmental irritants and allergens.

Skin barrier function

The skin barrier has two key jobs: defending us against irritants, allergens and microbes in the environment, and keeping the skin hydrated. On a microscopic level, it’s often described as having a ‘brick and mortar’ structure, where the skin cells (the bricks) provide the physical strength and are held together by a mortar of intercellular lipids, which include mostly ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids. Of these, ceramides are the major component in the mixture and they play a crucial role in making sure the mortar is densely packed so that it can function properly.  

Ceramides for acne-prone skin

Acne is caused by an excess of sebum (oil) and dead skin cells that block the pores, leading to inflammation of the hair follicles. When the skin produces excessive oil, it can clog pores and lead to acne. On the contrary, insufficient oil production can lead to dryness and potential skin barrier disruption.  Therefore, balancing oil production is an important aspect of managing acne-prone skin.

In acne-affected skin, the barrier function is impaired and decreased water binding leads to a decrease in skin hydration and a reduction in skin surface lipids, especially ceramides.  Reduction or deficiency in ceramides can lead to an impaired skin barrier integrity1.

Traditional acne treatment methods often result in skin irritation and dryness, and may lead to non-adherence.  Therefore, ceramide-containing moisturisers may offer benefits as an adjunct to acne treatment with the benefit of keeping the skin hydrated, supporting skin barrier function1,2.

References

  1. Lynde CW, Andriessen A, Barankin B, Gannes GD, Gulliver W, Haber R, McCuaig C, Rajan P, Skotnicki SP, Thomas R, Toole J, Vender R. Moisturizers and ceramide-containing moisturizers may offer concomitant therapy with benefits. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2014; 7(3):18-26.
  2. Thiboutot D, Gollnick H, Bettoli V, Dréno B, Kang S, Leyden JJ, Shalita AR, Lozada VT, Berson D, Finlay A, Goh CL, Herane MI, Kaminsky A, Kubba R, Layton A, Miyachi Y, Perez M, Martin JP, Ramos-E-Silva M, See JA, Shear N, Wolf J Jr, Global Alliance to Improve Outcomes in Acne. New insights into the management of acne: An update from the global alliance to improve outcomes in acne group. J Am Acad Dermatol. 2009; 60(5):S1-S50.

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)

What is Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide)?

Vitamin B3, also known as niacinamide, is an essential nutrient in the body.  The topical application of vitamin B3 is shown to reduce transepidermal water loss and help moisturise skin1.  It also helps to improve the appearance of skin tone and texture such as improve the appearance of aged and photodamaged skin and a reduction in the appearance of hyperpigmentation2.

Promote Ceramides biosynthesis to support skin barrier function

Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) has been shown to help support the natural formation of skin barrier components, like Ceramides and keratin, which are important for normal skin barrier function3. As a result, skin appears healthier, feels more elastic3, and is more resilient against moisture loss4.

Boosts the effectiveness of moisturisers

While vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) has been found to help reduce water loss from the skin in its own right5, it can also boost the effectiveness of other moisturisers, making it a valuable addition to moisturising creams. When researchers studied the effect of combining vitamin B3 (niacinamide) with glycerin, a common moisturising ingredient, they found it was more effective at relieving dry skin than glycerin alone4.  It also resulted in a greater improvement than other combinations of moisturisers without niacinamide.

References

  1. Soma Y, Kashima M, Imaizumi A et al. Moisturising effects of topical nicotinamide on    xzatopic dry skin. Int J Dermatol 02005 ; 43:197-202.
  2. Matts PJ, Oblong JE and Bissett DL. A review of the range of effects of niacinamide in human skin. IFSCC Magazine. 2002; 5(4):285-289.
  3. Berson DS, Osborne R, Oblong JE, Hakozaki T, Johnson MB, Bissett DL. Niacinamide: a topical vitamin with wide-ranging skin appearance benefits. In: Farris PK, editor. Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice. John Wiley & Sons, Ltd; 2014. page 103–12.
  4. Christman JC, Fix DK, Lucus SC, Watson D, Desmier E, Wilkerson RJJ, et al. Two randomized, controlled, comparative studies of the stratum corneum integrity benefits of two cosmetic niacinamide/glycerin body moisturizers vs. conventional body moisturizers. J Drugs Dermatol JDD 2012;11(1):22–9.
  5. Yokota T, Matsumoto M, Sakamaki T, Hikima R, Hayashi S, Yanagisawa M, et al. Classification of sensitive skin and development of a treatment system appropriate for each group. Int Fed Soc Cosmet Chem 2003;6(4):303–7.

Glycerin

What is glycerin?

Glycerin is a type of moisturiser known as a humectant, which when applied to the skin acts like a sponge, attracting and holding water in the stratum corneum1.  Glycerin ooccurs naturally in the body means allergic reactions are practically unheard of, meaning it’s ideal for people with sensitive skin1.

Skin barrier function

Glycerin is a humectant known for its moisturising properties and its ability to support skin barrier function. The skin barrier refers to the outermost layer of the skin, known as the stratum corneum, which acts as a protective shield against external aggressors such as irritants, allergens, and pathogens.  Glycerin has been shown to attract and retain moisture from the environment. When applied to the skin, glycerin draws water from the deeper layers of the skin or the surrounding atmosphere, hydrating the stratum corneum and improving its overall moisture content. This hydration helps to maintain the integrity and flexibility of the skin barrier.

Helps protect against irritation

Glycerin in a topical emulsion can help prevent the irritation and dehydration effects of washing the skin1.  At high humidity, Glycerine acts as a humectant, while at low humidity it acts as a skin moisturiser and conditioner by inhibiting lipid phase transition1.

References

  1. Ledford DK. Glycerin allergy [Internet]. American Academy of Allergy, Asthma & Immunology. 2020 [cited 2024 May 23]; Available from: https://www.aaaai.org/allergist-resources/ask-the-expert/answers/old-ask-the-experts/glycerin

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